Alla Scoperta delle Bellezze di Taormina " La Perla Regina "

2/29/2012 Rosaria Magnisi 92 Comments



Taormina, situata a 200 m sul livello del mare, si apre sullo Ionio e domina un immenso panorama di cui fanno parte oltre al vulcano più alto d'Europa i vastissimi odorosi agrumeti della piana sottostante. Vanta un clima ottimale che d'inverno raramente scende sotto i 15 gradi, mentre durante i periodi più caldi difficilmente supera i 28°. Pur non essendo direttamente sul mare le spiagge sottostanti di Mazzarò, Isola Bella, Giardini Naxos sono molto ben collegate e perciò facilmente raggiungibili dal centro urbano. Il clima mite e la bellezza dei luoghi ne fanno una meta privilegiata del turismo internazionale, nei confronti del quale viene presentata un'offerta di servizi ed infrastrutture di qualità superiore e standard europei. La città rappresenta un unicum caratterizzato da un intreccio straordinario di preziosi elementi architettonici, urbanistici, paesaggistici e di splendidi e lussureggianti giardini ricchi di valore archeologico e monumentale. Esaltata dalla maestosa imponenza dell'Etna, dall'incantevole costa di Capo Taormina e dell'Isola Bella, Taormina fu raccontata così da Maupassant: "se qualcuno dovesse passare un solo giorno in Sicilia e chiedesse cosa bisogna vedere, risponderei senza esitare Taormina. E' soltanto un paesaggio, ma un paesaggio in cui si trova tutto ciò che sembra creato sulla terra per sedurre gli occhi, la mente e la fantasia". Salendo da porta Messina si arriva subito in Piazza Vittorio Emanuele, che corrisponde all'antica agorà e poi al Foro romano; qui si trova Palazzo Corvaja, una splendida architettura quattrocentesca decorata da finestre gotiche che si aprono sulla austera facciata e caratterizzata da una bella cornice marcapiano e da un coronamento a merli. Il portale d'ingresso del palazzo costituisce il più bell'esempio di stile gotico-catalano. Il palazzo oggi è sede dell'Azienda di Soggiorno e Turismo. A sinistra del palazzo si trova la Chiesa barocca di Santa Caterina d'Alessandria, dietro la quale sono i resti dell'odeon di età imperiale. Dalla Piazza Vittorio Emanuele si va verso il Teatro Greco, raggiungibile percorrendo l'omonima via; per grandezza è il secondo in Sicilia dopo quello di Siracusa. Il paesaggio che gli fa da sfondo è straordinario, con l'Etna in primo piano e l'azzurro del mare che si confonde con il cielo. Il complesso è imponente e la sua veste attuale risale per la maggior parte al periodo romano. La splendida fabbrica è infatti frutto di molte stratificazioni: quando nel VII secolo a.C. cominciarono a sbarcare i primi coloni greci sul capo di Schisò, esisteva già un teatro o un'ara pubblica di preghiera arroccata sull'altura e d'altronde l'impianto attuale, rimaneggiato in età imperiale romana, si sovrappone ad un teatro più antico, di età ellenistica, risalente all'epoca di Ierone II di Siracusa. Al periodo romano appartiene anche la Naumachia, un vasto prospetto murario lungo 122 m e alto 5 m, sul quale si alternano nicchie di varia grandezza; situato appena sotto il Corso Umberto aveva il compito di supportare il piano stradale ma servì anche da sistema di raccolta delle acque piovane.
Proseguendo sul Corso si giunge alla Piazza 9 Aprile, con uno straordinario panorama sul golfo: sulla piazza si trova la chiesa di Sant'Agostino, di forme gotiche, la Chiesa di San Giuseppe, seicentesca, e la Porta di Mezzo con il bell'Orologio. La piazza è il centro della vita mondana ed è affollatissima soprattutto all'ora dell'aperitivo quando nei suoi bar storici si può incontrare il bel mondo. Oltrepassando la Porta si giunge alla Piazza del Duomo, dove si trova anche il Municipio (XVII sec.) e la fontana barocca che reca il simbolo della città: una figura mitica metà toro e metà donna. Il Duomo di San Nicolò risale al XIII sec. e fu riconfigurato in età rinascimentale. Poco prima della piazza si trova sulla destra, in cima a una scenografica scalinata, il Palazzo Ciampoli di origine quattrocentesca. Siamo giunti all'altro capo del Corso Umberto che termina con la Porta Catania. Qui si trova il Palazzo dei Duchi di Santo Stefano, uno degli esempi più interessanti dell'architettura civile siciliana dei secc. XIV-XV., oggi sede prestigiosa di mostre d'arte.
Da qui percorrendo in basso la via Roma si può raggiungere il convento di San Domenico, un bel complesso cinquecentesco, trasformato nel più famoso albergo dell'Italia meridionale, pur conservando gli arredi e la sistemazione originaria. Una passeggiata merita infine l'incantevole Villa comunale, dono alla città di una nobildonna inglese. Si trova a strapiombo sul mare, su di un panorama incantevole, e contiene una ricca vegetazione mediterranea ed esotica. Al centro della villa si trova una bizzarra costruzione in legno, un padiglione che mescola nei decori lo stile arabeggiante al gusto per le cineserie.
Tauromenion fu fondata nel 358 a.C. sul monte Tauro da un gruppo di greci provenienti dalla vicina Naxos, la più antica colonia greca in Sicilia. Divenne un importante centro di scambi per i romani che la dotarono di una grandissima cisterna per l'approvvigionamento idrico e successivamente costituì un punto di riferimento per la Sicilia bizantina. Durante il periodo arabo furono bonificati i terreni intorno e razionalizzato il sistema di irrigazione secondo criteri che sono ancora in uso nella Sicilia moderna ed acquisiti alla storia dell'ingegneria idraulica. Conquistata dai normanni fu poi abitata nel periodo aragonese da alcune importanti famiglie feudali, che la dotarono di splendidi palazzi. Dopo qualche secolo di decadenza, Taormina ritrovò il proprio splendore a partire dal XVIII sec. Quando, sulle orme di Goethe, che ne parlò entusiasticamente nel suo Viaggio in Italia, la città divenne meta di aristocratici, artisti, intellettuali e ricchi mecenati nordeuropei che diffusero la sua immagine di struggente bellezza in tutta Europa.
In città si organizzano tutto l'anno appuntamenti e manifestazioni di altissima qualità, raggruppati sotto il logo di "Taormina Arte". Importantissimo in particolare il festival cinematografico, la cui prima edizione risale al 1954, e rivolto da qualche anno verso le produzioni di lingua inglese; la rassegna attira a Taormina numerose star internazionali. Ma Taormina Arte riguarda anche la musica e il teatro; il teatro greco e la villa comunale fanno da palcoscenico d'eccezione agli spettacoli in genere svolti nei mesi estivi.
Il mare di Taormina è rappresentato dalla spiaggia di Mazzarò, cui si giunge tramite funivia o a piedi. Si tratta di una insenatura di bellezza straordinaria, delimitata dal Capo Sant'Andrea; oltre questo capo si estende l'altra spiaggia famosa di Isola Bella, che oggi è finalmente diventata Riserva Naturale Orientata. Salendo verso l'alto invece, oltrepassando la città di Taormina, si giunge dopo qualche chilometro di strada tortuosa al castello medievale della città, ben visibile dal delizioso paesino di Castelmola che lo sovrasta. Questa cittadina, a 5 km. da Taormina, è situata lungo un costone a strapiombo sulla valle e merita un breve gita per la bellezza del panorama e la bontà della sua pasticceria. Tra le località turistiche siciliane Taormina è un polo di eccellenza, per quantità e qualità dei servizi, per offerta e proposte culturali. La città ha una lunga, nobile tradizione di turismo colto e sofisticato, e per questo sopporta il turismo di massa, che da qualche decennio la affolla, con quell'aria un pò snob, tipica di quella nobiltà rassegnata ad aver rapporti con la gente comune per vivere.
E' comunque vero che, nonostante il gran numero di visitatori, soprattutto in estate e nei fine settimana, Taormina conserva intatto il suo fascino ed un'atmosfera signorile e accogliente. Per gustarla al meglio dovreste frequentarla nelle belle giornate di gennaio o all'inizio della primavera, quando i balconi cominciano a rifiorire e le buganvillea si riappropriano dei muri in pietra. La via principale della città è ormai un susseguirsi di negozietti, per fortuna non chiassosi però: antiquari, ceramiche, bric à brac, boutique sullo stile partenopeo, piccole gioiellerie artigianali.
Si dorme bene a Taormina e la scelta è veramente varia, a seconda delle possibilità economiche: noi vi consigliamo una camera alla Pensione Gaia (in cima alla scalinata a pochi metri dalla piazza del Duomo), con vista mozzafiato sul golfo. Si tratta di un piccolo ritrovo con poche camere, tutte diverse e arredate in un kitsch bizzarro e veramente originale. Proprietari giovani, gentili e accoglienti, prezzi modici e colazioni in un piacevole giardino di agrumi. Quanto al buon mangiare, com'è ovvio, è ricchissima l'offerta di ristoranti di pesce (ma state sempre molto attenti alla qualità); per questo non ve ne indichiamo neanche uno. Noi vi consigliamo invece, dopo l'aperitivo d'obbligo in piazzetta - per esempio al Wunderbar, un'autentica istituzione, per vedere e farsi vedere - un piccolo ristorante discreto e nascosto in una traversina del corso principale, A' Zammara: in estate si mangia in giardino, all'ombra dei limoni. E all'insegna dei limoni è il menù che vi proponiamo, a partire da un prelibato risotto al limone, vanto del locale, alle polpettine di carne avvolte nelle foglie di limone e arrostite sulla brace, per finire con la sontuosa mousse agli agrumi, un trionfo della gola. Se volete finire la serata in compagnia vi consigliamo lo Shatulle e tutta la piazzetta intorno, atmosfere magiche ed "alternative", di grande fascino insomma. Per bere un ultimo bicchiere invece, magari di un grande vino o di una riserva speciale, in dolce compagnia e lontani da occhi indiscreti, cercate il Caffè letterario Intra Moenia, su Porta Messina, gemello dello storico caffè di Napoli (i proprietari sono parenti). 

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